Lesa Goes To Washington
Vineyards in Walla Walla, Washington
I was recently invited by the Washington State Wine Commission to spend a week with fifty other wine professionals from twenty-two states to get an in depth immersion in all things Washington State wines. I had visited Seattle twice before but this was my first trip to the wine country. I had expected to encounter big monster reds, similar to those found in Napa, but what I instead found was a diverse range of grape varietals and wine styles that went beyond the usual suspects of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. With 1,050+ wineries, 400+ grape growers, and 60,000+ acres of wine grapes, Washington State is the second largest wine producing state. The state shares the same latitude as Bordeaux so naturally grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot thrive in this continental climate but they also boasts a treasure trove of over 80 different grape varieties! Here are three wineries that prove Washington is more than just the “Napa up North’ by focusing their efforts on everything from Austrian Lemberger to Argentinian-style Malbecs. Washington is truly where you can expect to find the unexpected.
Just east of Seattle is Woodinville, home to 300 boutique wineries, including Damsel Winery, owned and operated by winemaker Mari Womack. Mari’s sophisticated and gentle hand at winemaking belies the fact that this is only her 6th vintage. She produces a wide range of wines from a Loire Valley-inspired Sauvignon Blanc to Rhone-style Marsanne, Syrah and Grenache. Her mouth-watering Pinot Gris was a crowd favorite with notes of yellow apple, honeydew, chamomile and citrus. Mari is definitely a winemaker to watch.
Head three hours east of Woodinville and you’ll find Yakima Valley, home to more than 90 wineries in just 70 short miles. Here we visited Kiona Vineyards in Benton City (part of the Red Mountain sub AVA). This family-owned winery has been around since 1972 and also produces a wide range of wines, including a Chenin Blanc from some of the oldest vines in the region! One thing to note is that Yakima is located east of the Cascades and the resulting rain shadow effect protects the region from excessive rain fall - unlike Seattle on the other side of the mountain. The climate in Yakima is therefore desert like where it is hot during the day but the temps drop by twenty degrees at night. This is not that different from other high desert regions like Mendoza in Argentina which explains why I was so smitten by the Kiona Red Mountain Malbec. It was absolutely juicy with notes of dark berries, pomegranates and tell-tale Malbec whiff of cedar and cocoa powder. Their Bordeaux-inspired Fortuna II blend was equally as delicious.
Head even further east, past Yakima Valley, and you’ll find Walla Walla Valley (arguably, the most famous wine region in Washington State). Here we visited Grosgrain Winery led by a husband-and-wife team who are dedicated to organic farming practices and strive to produce wines with freshness and elegance. Considering Walla Walla is home to Bordeaux-inspired stalwarts like Leonetti Cellars and Cayuse, the last thing I expected to taste was a sparkling wine made from Austrian Lemberger! Grosgrain also pushes the boundaries with Italian grapes such as Nebbiolo, Aglianico and even Moscato. If you’re someone like me who enjoys unique grapes, definitely add Grosgrain to your list of wineries to explore.
As you can see, Washington is more than just big shouldered red wine country. Washington’s diverse geography and climate deliver a perfect balance of New World Fruit with Old World Structure and with a wide array of grapes to match. Fortunately for us, Washington has over 1000 wineries for us to dive into and plenty to explore. Next time you are thinking of buying a bottle or glass of wine, don’t pass up on Washington State.
A special thank you to the folks at the Washington State Wine Commission
Thank you for a once in a lifetime opportunity to explore Washington wine country. Spending a week with fifty people who loved wine just as much as I do was unforgettable and the magnitude what your team put together was nothing short of incredible. From talking to winemakers to punching down grapes, your team took me on a deep dive into Washington wine country that is incomparable. I also don’t think I have ever tasted so many wines in such a short amount of time. My palate thanks you! Please extend my thanks to Patty, the espresso lady, who followed the entire crew across the state. She kept my energy alive with a jam-packed schedule. Your team went above and beyond to showcase Washington in all its glory but, it was clear, you loved doing it. You showed me what true hospitality is and reminded me why I choose to stay in it. Thank you!
